Tuesday , April 20 2021

New York's great eating scene is now jumping in one direction – food



To get a new Michelin star in New York, the first thing you can do is put the word "sushi" in your restaurant. Or at least make sure your menu is dedicated to Japanese cuisine.

As the Michelin Guide announced on Tuesday a victory in New York in 2019, 17 restaurants won new stars – and six of them were Japanese. French cuisine was fine: Three new items checked a box, two of which came from Joel Robuchon, the legendary chef who died earlier. Two newcomers were Mexican, including the exciting new Oaxacan Claro restaurant.

At the top level, the dining scene of the city is unchanged. Manhattan is still home to five five-star hotels: Le Bernardin, Masa, Eleven Madison Park, Chef's Table at Brooklyn Fare and Per Se. If anyone had been determined to visit all of them within one day, it would not have taken such a walk: restaurants are crowded in Midtown, with the exception of EMP in the Flatiron District (and for some, the 24th Midtown Street).

This year's New York Guide includes 76 restaurants with stars, which is compared to the previous year 72 (and slightly below 77 in the 2017 guidebook). One more place has already been closed: Tetsu Basement, which has won two stars, has been transformed from a precious restaurant to a tasty meal, yes, a la carte sushi. The news was too late for the print guide.

Gwendal Poullennec, the new International Director of the Michelin Guide, says there is no popularity about sushi. "There is a rich selection of Japanese restaurants in New York," he says. "That's what customers are looking for, and it works well, but our criteria remain the same, no matter what the kitchen is."

Poullenec used the same arguments to prevent the presence of Babba on the list (the restaurant is jointly accused by the sexual harasser Mario Batali) and the lack of female chefs. "We have the same methodology we use around the world, and we have no criteria or considerations over and above the quality of the food." Of the 76 star restaurants, there are only two women heading to the kitchen: Melissa Rodriguez and Emma Bengtsson of Del Posto in Aquavita.

While the triathlete scene in New York City could be flat, the two-star category is good news and bad news. Four restaurants were added to the list, including three new locations: Icimura u Uchu, L & Atelier de Joël Robuchon and Tetsu Basement.

The one-day list has also gained more dynamic additions, such as Atomix, with the exquisite Korean menu of omakase. Brooklyn has retained nine sites, with two of this year's most exciting accessories, Claro and Oxomoco, the Williamsburg dining room specializing in Mexican cuisine. And Le Coucou eventually created a list. "It's been on our radar since it opened, and we've been watching the steady increase in the quality of the dishes to sing with gentleness," says Poullennec.

If the kitchen Michelin does not do, he's an American.

The star Gramercy Tavern can not come out of one star category; Grill is completely missing. The two policemen, Tavern Minetta and Aureole, were removed from the list. Other serious omissions include Cosme, Beatrice Inn and Momofuku Ssam Bar, which is stuck in Bib Gourmands. Also, nowhere to see Lilia; Italian food is barely on the list, despite being the world's number one restaurant, Osteria Francescana, in Modena.

Poullenec defends the lack of a list of Italian stains. "In the 2019 guide we have 563 restaurants – 87 are Italian, 70 Japanese," he says. "Italian is very well represented." Just not with the stars.

See the full list below. An asterisk marks a new record; Neighborhood refers to Michelin.

Three stars

Chef's Table in Midtown West

Eleven Madison Park (Gramercy)

Le Bernardin (Midtown West)

Masa (Midtown West)

Per Se (Midtown West)

Read also: World No. 3 Restaurant opens in Palm Beach

Two Stars

Aquavit (Midtown East)

Artera (Tribeca)

Aska (Williamsburg)

Blanca (Fort Greene)

Daniel (Upper East Side)

Gabriel Kreuther (Midtown West)

* Ichimura u Uchū (Lower East Side)

Jean-Georges (Upper West Side)

Jungsik (Tribeca)

Ko (Eastern Village)

* Workshop by Joel Robuchon (Chelsea)

Sea (Midtown West)

Modern (Midtown West)

Sushi Ginza Onodera (Midtown West)

* Tetsu Cellar (Tribeca, Closed)

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One star

Agern (Midtown East)

Ai Fiori (Midtown West)

Aldea (Gramercy)

* Atomix (Gramercy)

Babbo (Greenwich Village)

Bar Uchū (Lower East Side)

Bardar (TriBeCa)

Blue Hill (Greenwich Village)

Bouley at Home (Gramercy)

Café Boulud (Upper East Side)

Cafe China (Midtown East)

Carbone (Greenwich Village)

Casa Enrique (Queens)

Casa Mono (Gramercy)

Caviar of Russia (Midtown East)

* Claro (Sunset Park)

Clocktower (Gramercy)

Contra (Lower East Side)

Cote (Gramercy)

Del Posto (Chelsea)

Faro (Fort Greene)

Finch (Fort Greene)

Gotham bar and grill (Greenwich Village)

Gramercy Taverna (Greenwich Village)

Günter Seeger (Greenwich Village)

Hirohisa (SoHo)

* Jeju Noodle Bar (Greenwich Village)

Jewel Bako (Eastern Village)

Junoon (Gramercy)

Kajitsu (Midtown East)

Kanoyama (Eastern Village)

Kosaka (Greenwich Village)

Kyo Ya (Eastern Village)

Appart (Financial District)

* Le Coucou (SoHo)

* Le Grill by Joel Robuchon (Chelsea)

Meadowsweet (Williamsburg)

The Musket Room (SoHo)

Nix (Greenwich Village)

* Noda (Gramercy)

NoMad (Gramercy)

Okuda (Chelsea)

* Oxomoco (Williamsburg)

Peter Luger (Williamsburg)

River Café (Downtown Brooklyn)

Satsuki (Midtown West)

Sushi Amane (Midtown East)

Sushi Inoue (Harlem)

* Sushi Nakazawa (Greenwich Village)

* Sushi Noz (Upper East Side)

Sushi Yasuda (Midtown East)

Tempura Matsui (Midtown East)

Tuome (Eastern Village)

Uncle Boons (SoHo)

Wallse (Greenwich Village)

Clam Bar ZZ (Greenwich Village)


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